Mountaineer with flag and skis approaches snowy mountain peak.


Winter on Waddington

Mount Waddington’s reputation is fearsome. Many storms batter its stony flanks, avalanches occur frequently and its spires are often crusted in ice. Such are the summer conditions. In 1969, a group of climbers, some American, some Canadian, set off to make the first winter ascent of Waddington. Flown to a glacier, they ascended Waddington on skis, then on foot. Despite clear, sunny weather, the party suffered inexplicable bouts of weakness. The first group struggled slowly to the summit, and was forced to rappel down in darkness to their snow cave, fearing they could not maintain sufficient body heat for a bivouac.

Barry Hagen Collection, BCMC 69-18.